We finally stopped at another freedom camping site that was situated beside a little lake. It was a quiet and uneventful night, and we slept well while the rain started to patter down on to the car roof.
We woke to more than a little rain, and hurridly packed up our car and continued on in to Arthur's Pass. This road was again incredible, and the pass seemed to loom ahead of us as an isolated and eerie giant. The day was still grey when we arrive in the tiny township, but we spotted a small bunk house that advertised $18 beds. DONE! It was a ramshackle little place, but the owner, Bill, was a kind-hearted man with some big opinions on NZ agriculture and pest control methods.
The next day we hiked up Avalanche Peak, which was probably one of the best day hikes I've even done. The climb started out "Grouse Grind steep" and conitnued that way through the jungle. After about an hour and 500 metres gained we reached the bush line and broke out into the open air. We then began to ascend steeply again, picking our way amongst loose rocks and grassy slopes.
Avalanche Peak loomed daunting in the distance, and the trail looked to become even more challenging. After about another hour we reached a trail junction, one that indicated we were getting close. The last past of the climb was along a very spiny and narrow ridge, buffeted by mist and wind. I have to admit that my heart was pounding a bit, and I wish I could say it was from the exertion of climbing. On either side of us lay steep slopes of scree, punctuated by jagged rock formations. We climbed over and between boulder settlements, trying not to look down.
Finally we reached the summit of Avalanche Peak, which was big enough for about 6 people to sit upon. The effort was well worth the reward, as mountains were perched around us in every direction. The wind continued to howl however, and with it came the passing of clouds around us. Every once in awhile we were rewarded with astounding views of Crow Glacier, which sat directly to the North.
After our hike we trod back to The Sanctuary (our bunkhouse) for some much deserved relaxation. The next day dawned much as Bill had promised us, "Quite shitty." We packed up Kiwi the Car and headed back to the West Coast. We stopped in Greymouth for a couple hours to treat ourseleves to a milkshake and a wet walk along the rocky beach. We then continued onwards to Punakaiki to look for accomodation. Imagine our surprise when we found a campsite that charges only $45 for a cabin. Seems silly that most hostels charge around $50-60 a night for dorm rooms. Anyways, it was too good to pass up, and we decided to stay for two nights. Punakaiki is situated right on the edge of the coast, and the waves are ever roaring and thrashing. The surfing is apparently amazing, but the swimming is said to be life-threatening. Not surprising considering the encounter I had...
We had dressed warmly for the misty day, and had planned to spend some time exploring the Punakaiki caverns and packcake rocks. We parked at a tiny viewpoint, and before embarking on our adventure, we ambled down to stand on a huge rock that was resting among the torrid waves. At one point I said, "I'm going to go a little closer and tempt fate." Until that point, none of the waves had crashed high up enough to soak the rock upon which we stood. Apparently Mother Nature overheard me and had decided that somewhere along my travels I had wronged her. A MASSIVE wave rose up and crashed down onto me, leaving me completely drenched. It looked and felt as if I had dove into a pool fully clothed.
Well know this Mother Nature. Revenge is a dish best served cold and I will have my vengeance. Hrrumph. (Tempting fate again and this time she probably has a lightening bolt reserved for me.)
Thankfully we were close enough to the campground to drive back and change. Within 15 mins we were back at our viewpoint parking lot (with me now carefully avoiding the crashing waves) and trekking up the road to the caverns. I was able to perfect my Golum impression (Lord of the Rings reference for those of you who don't know what Golum is) deep within the caves. They went back for several hundred feet, and we even managed to spot several glow worms. We were the only ones in the cave, and when we turned off our headlamps for a few brief moments, it was a beyond creepy feeling. Imagine standing in utter darkness, hearing only the sounds of dripping water echoing around you. It definitely leads the imagination on a monster-filled expedition.
After clammering out of the caves, we walked over to the Pancake Rocks. These formationss have been formed over millions of years, and have built sediments up to form rocks that look like stacks of the tasty breakfast food. Complete with geyser-like blowholes and surge pools, the experience was one that will not be soon forgotten.
After our outdoor escapades... I AM GOING TO SMUSH THIS DAMN SANDFLY THAT KEEPS PESTERING ME!!!
* * *
(Wiping crushed sandfly goo on my pants) Where was I? Afterwards, I wanted to rest for a bit, and I enjoyed some time reading my book. Normally my trashy romance novels seem so adventurous and exotic, but now I just can't help thinking, "Really? Your run-ins with bandits and highway-men just don't seem as daring and exciting as my New Zealand times!"
The early evening was spent walking along a beach that seemed to strech forever. Off in the distance I could seem a looming rock formation, and after about half an hour we reached it.
Today is looking to be a mild day with breaks of sun. We are planning on doing a short overnight hike called the Inland Pack Track. It involves some bigger river crossings and boasts some neat caves apparently. The destination is called "The Ballroom," which is one of NZ's biggest rock bivvies.
More to come!
Miss everyone back home! Much love!
xoxox
Courtney
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